{"id":4178,"date":"2019-04-02T05:19:32","date_gmt":"2019-04-01T23:49:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.vue.ai\/blog\/?p=4178"},"modified":"2023-10-19T16:29:40","modified_gmt":"2023-10-19T10:59:40","slug":"iris-van-herpen-fashion-technology","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.vue.ai\/blog\/leaders-in-retail\/iris-van-herpen-fashion-technology\/","title":{"rendered":"Iris Van Herpen: Handcrafting Fashion With Technology"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"ez-toc-container\" class=\"ez-toc-v2_0_65 counter-hierarchy ez-toc-counter ez-toc-transparent ez-toc-container-direction\">\n<p class=\"ez-toc-title\">Table of Contents<\/p>\n<label for=\"ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-item-69f84b9e55e09\" class=\"ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-label\"><span class=\"\"><span class=\"eztoc-hide\" style=\"display:none;\">Toggle<\/span><span class=\"ez-toc-icon-toggle-span\"><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"list-377408\" width=\"20px\" height=\"20px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" fill=\"none\"><path d=\"M6 6H4v2h2V6zm14 0H8v2h12V6zM4 11h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2zM4 16h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2z\" fill=\"currentColor\"><\/path><\/svg><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" class=\"arrow-unsorted-368013\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"10px\" height=\"10px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.2\" baseProfile=\"tiny\"><path d=\"M18.2 9.3l-6.2-6.3-6.2 6.3c-.2.2-.3.4-.3.7s.1.5.3.7c.2.2.4.3.7.3h11c.3 0 .5-.1.7-.3.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7zM5.8 14.7l6.2 6.3 6.2-6.3c.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.7-.3h-11c-.3 0-.5.1-.7.3-.2.2-.3.5-.3.7s.1.5.3.7z\"\/><\/svg><\/span><\/span><\/label><input type=\"checkbox\"  id=\"ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-item-69f84b9e55e09\" checked aria-label=\"Toggle\" \/><nav><ul class='ez-toc-list ez-toc-list-level-1 ' ><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-1\" href=\"https:\/\/www.vue.ai\/blog\/leaders-in-retail\/iris-van-herpen-fashion-technology\/#symbolism-and-silhouettes\" title=\"Symbolism and Silhouettes\">Symbolism and Silhouettes<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-2\" href=\"https:\/\/www.vue.ai\/blog\/leaders-in-retail\/iris-van-herpen-fashion-technology\/#3d-printing-pioneer\" title=\"3D Printing Pioneer\">3D Printing Pioneer<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-3\" href=\"https:\/\/www.vue.ai\/blog\/leaders-in-retail\/iris-van-herpen-fashion-technology\/#recognizing-the-power-of-collaborations\" title=\"Recognizing the Power of Collaborations\">Recognizing the Power of Collaborations<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-4\" href=\"https:\/\/www.vue.ai\/blog\/leaders-in-retail\/iris-van-herpen-fashion-technology\/#more-than-a-futuristic-label\" title=\"More Than a Futuristic Label\">More Than a Futuristic Label<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n<span class=\"rt-reading-time\" style=\"display: block;\"><span class=\"rt-label rt-prefix\">Reading Time: <\/span> <span class=\"rt-time\">6<\/span> <span class=\"rt-label rt-postfix\">minutes<\/span><\/span><p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">The behind-the-scenes <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=gKb0v5J_wTE\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">movie<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> of Dutch fashion designer Iris Van Herpen\u2019s <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.irisvanherpen.com\/haute-couture\/shift-souls\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Shift Souls<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> collection gives an impression that a giant art and science installation is getting ready to be unveiled by a team of scientists &amp; artists. Be it the hypnotizing visuals of sheets and sheets of 3D laser-cut patterns being meticulously layered or witnessing an eye mask jewellery coming to life through high-resolution multi-material printer, the prep work for the collection she presented at the Paris Couture Week 2019 &nbsp;is a treat to watch.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Iris van Herpen \uff5e Shift Souls \uff5e Process film\" width=\"1778\" height=\"1000\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/gKb0v5J_wTE?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">But no one was prepared for the final show. People gasped in delight when models sashayed in wearing glow-in-the-dark-heels and voluminous dresses that floated like colourful clouds in Northern Lights sky! Taking inspiration from the paintings of NASA engineer-turned-artist Kim Keever, Shift Souls was all about expressing the future possibility of human-animal hybrids termed \u2018Cybrids\u2019.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u201cFor &#8216;Shift Souls&#8217; I looked at the evolution of the human shape, its idealization through time and the hybridization of the female forms within mythology. Specially the imagination and the fluidity within identity change in Japanese mythology gave me the inspiration to explore the deeper meaning of identity and how immaterial and mutable it can become within the current coalescence of our digital bodies,\u201d Van Herpen <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.irisvanherpen.com\/haute-couture\/shift-souls\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">revealed<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">The young designer used a myriad of techniques to infuse movement into the eighteen looks that were part of this collection. The roomy and vibrant \u2018Harmonic\u2019 silhouette, for example, was achieved by hand pleating gradient dyed transparent organza into half-wheel pliss\u00e9 panels. The laser-cut surreal dresses in warm hues were complemented by 3D printed face jewellery \u2018Cellchemy\u2019 made in association with the Delft University of Technology. The cherry on the top were the plexiglass heels that reminded everyone of their childhood glow-in-the-dark-shoes. <\/span><\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"symbolism-and-silhouettes\"><\/span><b>Symbolism and Silhouettes<\/b><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Van Herpen <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/soundcloud.com\/showstudio-official\/iris-van-herpen\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">shared<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that her first memory of fashion and clothing is dressing up in costumes that her theatre-enthusiast grandmother collected. \u201cI think that is my first memory of feeling that transformation when you wear something else. You come into a story\u2026 like you feel you are going into history,\u201d the designer said. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">She also studied ballet and was passionate about it, which explains how dance and movements play such a vital role in her work. But when the love for fabrics, working with her hands, and painting overpowered her love for dance, Van Herpen decided to pursue fashion. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">An ArtEZ alumnus, Van Herpen launched her couture label and first collection \u2018<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.irisvanherpen.com\/haute-couture\/chemical-crows\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chemical Crows<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u2019 in 2007 after interning with Dutch textile designer Claudy Jongstra and British fashion designer Lee Alexander McQueen. McQueen who is famous for his <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.vogue.com\/fashion-shows\/spring-2001-ready-to-wear\/alexander-mcqueen\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">theatrics<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and eccentricity on ramp walks could have influenced Van Herpen as she has been <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.pinterest.com\/pin\/3729612162160225\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">called<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u2018The Alexander McQueen of Tech Geeks\u2019.<\/span><\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.irisvanherpen.com\/_uploaded\/chemical-crows-shoot\/ChemicalCrows08-005-50.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1201\"><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chemical Crows | Source: Iris Van Herpen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">R<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">ight from her first collection, Van Herpen showcased her strength of turning abstract ideas into high-fashion and making it wearable, believable and chic. Chemical Crows was an ode to a group of crows that she often saw near her studio, black magic and alchemy, a subject that she was reading about at that time. She used 700 gold-coloured spokes of umbrella to create the movement of wings and feathers on dresses, which combined alchemy with crow symbolism.<\/span><\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"3d-printing-pioneer\"><\/span><b>3D Printing Pioneer<\/b><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Van Herpen married strong concepts with technology and collaborations at a very early stage of her career. Unlike other designers that work in isolation and focus on the individual identity &amp; control, she believes in partnering with people from various disciplines for her couture collections. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Up until early 2010, the designer launched collections like Refinery Smoke, Mummification, Radiation Invasion, and Synesthesia that explored peculiar concepts. With \u2018Crystallization\u2019 in 2010, she started experimenting with technology like 3D printing. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Developed in collaboration with Benthem Crouwel Architects, \u2018Crystallization\u2019 presented water in different forms like ripples, splash, and jet. Made using polyamide, leather, acrylic sheets, fabrics, and silver chain, the pieces of clothing were unique one-of-a-kind. However, the highlight of this show was the 3D printed top that mimicked limestone deposits, created with the help of architect Daniel Widrig. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">The first tryst with 3D printing reinforced her belief that printing and scanning technology can transform the fashion industry. From collaborating with architects that specialize in 3D modelling to creating 3D printed shoes that look like tree roots, she introduced technology to couture.<\/span><\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.irisvanherpen.com\/_uploaded\/capriole-show\/foto008-0109-910x1141-50.jpg\" alt=\"Iris Van Herpen\" width=\"800\" height=\"1003\"><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Capriole | Source: Iris Van Herpen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Van Herpen partnered with architect Isa\u00efe Bloch for <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.irisvanherpen.com\/haute-couture\/capriole\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Capriole<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a collection that celebrated the \u2018feeling just before and during a free-fall parachute jump\u2019.<\/span> <span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Austrian architect Julia Koerner assisted the Dutch designer during \u2018<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.irisvanherpen.com\/haute-couture\/hybrid-holism\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hybrid Holism\u2019<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u2018<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.irisvanherpen.com\/haute-couture\/voltage\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Voltage\u2019<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Koerner is the same person who <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dezeen.com\/2019\/02\/27\/black-panther-best-costume-design-oscar-3d-printing\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">worked with Oscar-winter Ruth Carter<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> to introduce 3D printing technology into the costumes of the movie Black Panther.<\/span><\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"recognizing-the-power-of-collaborations\"><\/span><b>Recognizing the Power of Collaborations<\/b><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the list of designers who have been tinkering with high-tech, Iris van Van Herpen sits at the top. Haute couture is known as over-the-top and extravagant. But Van Herpen\u2019s work is wearable high-fashion that celebrities choose to wear at other places besides the Met Gala. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">French actress and model Eva Green recently <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.redcarpet-fashionawards.com\/2019\/03\/12\/eva-green-in-iris-van-herpen-haute-couture-dumbo-la-premiere\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">turned up wearing<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> the white and black Shift Souls dress at the world premiere of the movie Dumbo. So <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.redcarpet-fashionawards.com\/category\/blog\/blog-designers\/iris-van-herpen\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">did<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Beyonce, Lady Gaga, Solange Knowles, Rita Ora, Tilda Swinton, Naomi Campbell and Dania Gurira on several red carpets, award shows, films and music videos. <\/span><\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 994px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.irisvanherpen.com\/_uploaded\/blog-fotos\/beyonce-mine__big-LRG.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"994\" height=\"550\"><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beyonce &#8216;Mine&#8217; Video | Source: Iris Van Herpen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">This was made possible through deriving inspiration from people outside the fashion industry and strategic collaborations. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u201cMaking collections and creating fashion is really always big team of people that work together. And you can\u2019t do it on your own. You can design something but it has to be made. And those people are just as important in the process as the designer itself,\u201d <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/soundcloud.com\/showstudio-official\/iris-van-herpen\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">affirmed<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Van Herpen. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Van Herpen has been pushing boundaries in every sense by stepping out of her comfort zone and working with people from diverse disciplines that are seldom seen on couture ramp walks. In just over ten years, she has launched more than 20 collections, each with a unique theme and a new set of subject matter experts. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">For <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.irisvanherpen.com\/haute-couture\/ludi-naturae\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ludi Naturae<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Collection, the complex aerial photography of artists like Thierry Bornier, and Andy Yeung served as an inspiration. Another artist, Peter Gentenaar helped to translate this inspiration into fashion by building floating installations that came alive in the background as the models walked. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Canadian architect Philip Beesley, for example, who merges advanced computing, synthetic biology, mechatronics engineering, chemistry and artificial intelligence was Van Herpen\u2019s partner while designing <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.irisvanherpen.com\/haute-couture\/magnetic-motion\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Magnetic Motion<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> collection. The same collection saw J\u00f3lan van der Wiel making magnetic <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.dezeen.com\/2014\/10\/29\/jolan-van-der-wiel-magnetic-spiky-shoes-iris-van-herpen-ss15\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">shoes<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> using resin, iron and magnets. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">While talking about what sparks inspiration, she <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.fastcompany.com\/3026830\/high-tech-fashion-designer-iris-van-herpen-curates-a-magazine\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">averred<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u201cScience, art, philosophy, dance, biology, technology and daily life; invisible things like radiation, electricity, energy, magnetism, matter. Inspiration is a matter of sensitivity. It is the ability to collect from the past, present and future as they shift past us simultaneously.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"more-than-a-futuristic-label\"><\/span><b>More Than a Futuristic Label<\/b><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Van Herpen is often regarded as a designer who has a futuristic vision; someone who is different from her peers who keep rehashing old fashion trends. And it is true, when we study her entire body of work. The young designer has explored a range of unconventional areas such as magnetism, kinetic energy and sound waves, without once revisiting the 40s or the 70s. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">But she finds labels such as \u2018futuristic\u2019 and \u2018high tech\u2019 very limiting. And to everyone\u2019s surprise, she wasn\u2019t always interested in technology. In fact, the designer loves traditional craftsmanship and working with hand. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u201cWhen I was in the art academy, I was almost against technology. I just didn\u2019t know anyway how to work with it. So I really believed that I can do it by my hand\u2026 I really don\u2019t need that computer. I can do all the drawings by hand\u2026The first two years that I started for myself, I mainly did hand work. Not even using the sewing machine that much. And then somebody introduced me to the 3D printing and also to company who does that and to an architect. And then suddenly my world opened up,\u201d Van Herpen <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/soundcloud.com\/showstudio-official\/iris-van-herpen\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">disclosed<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">After this turning point, she opened up to technology and collaboration with other artists, which helped to shape the brand that it is now. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">She calls her designs a blend of modern technology and traditional craftsmanship. &nbsp;In an <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/fashionmagazine.com\/fashion\/in-conversation-iris-van-herpen\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">interview<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">, she stated that people call her designs futuristic because they haven\u2019t seen something like that before and hence, connect it with the future. But her work represents \u2018the present\u2019, not the past or future.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u201cEverything I make is possible today. So I reference my work much more to here now than to the future,\u201d Van Herpen emphasized in the same interview. She believes that the future of fashion is technology as it would enable us to invent materials that can help to save the planet by reducing the environmental implications of fast fashion. <\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p><span class=\"rt-reading-time\" style=\"display: block;\"><span class=\"rt-label rt-prefix\">Reading Time: <\/span> <span class=\"rt-time\">6<\/span> <span class=\"rt-label rt-postfix\">minutes<\/span><\/span> The behind-the-scenes movie of Dutch fashion designer Iris Van Herpen\u2019s Shift Souls collection gives an impression that a giant art and science installation is getting ready to be unveiled by a team of scientists &amp; artists. Be it the hypnotizing visuals of sheets and sheets of 3D laser-cut patterns being meticulously layered or witnessing an  &#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":23,"featured_media":4180,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1160,1522],"tags":[253],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v22.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Iris Van Herpen : Handcrafting Fashion With Technology | Vue.ai Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Van Herpen is often regarded as a designer who has a futuristic vision; someone who is different from her peers who keep rehashing old fashion trends.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.vue.ai\/blog\/leaders-in-retail\/iris-van-herpen-fashion-technology\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Iris Van Herpen : Handcrafting Fashion With Technology | Vue.ai Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Van Herpen is often regarded as a designer who has a futuristic vision; 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